Dan Suzio Photography: Galápagos Diary, Day 6

Day 6, April 17: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

A "dry landing" doesn't always mean there's a dock.

A hike on Isabela Island this morning was the first time the group has really felt crowded, as the seventeen of us (including the two leaders) followed a narrow trail through a fairly dense forest of small trees and shrubs. It was also our first sighting of Giant Tortoises, which can make up for almost anything. We saw at least ten, maybe fifteen. Nobody remembered to count them. Many were in deep shade and a few were right on the trail, so the photography was challenging. But one group of four or five was feeding in a meadow with good light, so I think we all got the photos we wanted.

As a bonus, we also encountered some very cooperative - and very big - Land Iguanas.

Our afternoon hike, on another area of Isabela, crossed a vast lava field with scattered cacti and occasional freshwater ponds. Hiking in open, desert-like conditions, complete with oases, made me feel refreshed and energized. (As you probably know, I like deserts. A lot.) At one pond we found and photographed three pink flamingoes - just a hint of what we might see tomorrow.

Opuntia cactus

American Flamingoes

Great Blue Heron

Back at the shore, as day turned to evening, we had a chance to photograph a few species that by now are starting to feel like old friends.

Flightless Cormorant.

Blue-footed Booby

Brown Pelican

Galápagos Sea Lions

Marine Iguana

A little more about our tour leaders:

Tui was born in Belgium and arrived on Santa Cruz Island on her second birthday. She has traveled extensively and lived in New Zealand for a while, but Galápagos has always been her home. She probably knows the islands better than anyone else ever has or ever will. She’s my age, tall and athletic, and appears to be equally comfortable speaking English, Spanish, or German, in addition to the French that she grew up with.

Monica also comes from the islands, went to high school in Quito and college in Germany, and is fluent in at least three languages. She’s young and full of energy and enthusiasm, the sort of person who can tell you about the subtle differences in the courtship display of the various species of lava lizards (each island has its own species) and then bubble over with excitement at the sight of some baby ducks. “¡Ooh, hay tres bebés, Tui!”

Together they share a love for the islands, a sense of humor, and a commitment to the group that makes them the best leadership team I can imagine. It’s clear that they’re close friends and not just co-workers. Their nightly briefings are entertaining as well as informative, and frequently have the whole group laughing, especially as we have all gotten to know each other better. I often sit with one or both of them at meal times.