Thursday, September 19, 2024

Galápagos Diary, Day 15

Day 15, April 26: Leaving Galápagos

First thing this morning we gathered our bags and headed straight for the airport at Baltra. LOL, just kidding. Sunrise is at 6:00 and our flight to Quito didn’t leave until 10:22, giving us just enough time for one more wet landing. In a small lagoon near Bachas Beach, on Santa Cruz Island, we photographed two flamingoes, a Black-necked Stilt with four chicks, and one last marine iguana.


Juvenile American Flamingo

Black-necked Stilt with chick

How many birds do you see?

Black-necked Stilt chick

American Flamingo

Marine Iguana

On the beach we found the tracks of a sea turtle that had laid her eggs just a couple hours earlier. It felt like the right way to say goodbye to Galápagos before joining the crowds at the airport.


Sea Turtle tracks

Tonight in Quito we will have one last dinner together, though it won’t be the same without Tui and Monica. Early tomorrow morning we will board our flight for Miami and then home.


Baltra Airport

Epilogue

I hope you’ve enjoyed seeing my photos and reading my stories. What started as a simple email to a small group of friends and family while I was traveling somehow evolved into a major project that has taken much longer than I had planned.

And it’s not really done yet. I’m writing this in September, five months after my Galápagos trip, and I’m still editing the photos.

I shot more than 80,000 exposures, most of them in bursts of between five and fifty (at twenty per second). I'm on track to delete about 95 percent, and maybe half of what I keep will be good enough to add to my web site. So when someone asks, “how many pictures did you take?”, the fun answer is 80,000 but the honest answer is 2,000.

In our fifteen days on the Tip Top IV we visited 18 islands, going ashore on 15 of them. We photographed the other three from the boats.

I came home with photos of at least 38 species of birds (in addition to the 23 species I photographed at Mount Antisana before the trip officially started), 12 species of reptiles, two mammals (three if you count the whale skeletons), five invertebrates, and a bunch of fish. Most of them are animals I had never seen before and many I had never heard of.

My traveling companions were interesting and we got along well. The food on the yacht was very good; the cabins were small but adequate. The days were full, the photography was often difficult and at other times absurdly easy, and I went to bed each night completely exhausted.

Would I do it again? Of course I would. In fact, I’ve already booked my next trip for 2026.





Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office

Day 8: Aw, poop!

Day 9: Imagining the past

Day 10: I need a break!

Day 11: The big city

Day 12: Iguana lips

Day 13: Lotsa lava

Day 14: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Day 15: Leaving Galápagos

Galápagos Diary, Day 14

Day 14, April 25: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Our last full day in Galápagos started on a beautiful red sand beach on Rábida Island. The sand felt great on my bare feet, except for the sharp pebbles that seemed to appear when I least expected them.


Rábida Island

As I walked along the sand a very friendly mockingbird arrived and gave me a pedicure, and shortly after I shot a few R-rated photos of lava lizards. Just a normal day in Galápagos.


Mockingbird pedicure

Can we have a little privacy here?

There was a small population of marine iguanas here, and we got some nice photos of them on the rocks and in the water. Tui mentioned that our group seems especially committed to the belief that every iguana must be photographed, to which one person replied, “What’s your point?” It wasn’t me who said that but it could have been. Iguanas are pretty special animals, and if you’re patient they will usually give you a photogenic pose.


Marine Iguana emerging from the water

Feeding at low tide

Finding a good basking spot

Waiting for his ship to come in

After lunch we had our final snorkeling session. Soon after I jumped into the water I saw something zoom past me and circle back around. It was a penguin! I swam in circles for the next several minutes as I watched it chasing and catching small fish. At one point it came up for air right next to me, so I came up as well. For a second or two we were face to face, just inches apart, and then it was back to chasing fish. It doesn’t seem fair to call penguins flightless after seeing how skillfully they use their wings underwater. (And again, I'm definitely not an underwater photographer. Yet.)


Galápagos Penguin

In the evening we were joined by the crew for a farewell drink. Tui made a short speech, in English and again in Spanish, thanking them for their amazing effort, and handed the captain a fat envelope containing our pooled tips, which will be divided equally among the seven of them.

After dinner we watched a 20-minute video that Monica made, showing the highlights of each day of the trip. It was at times funny, beautiful, hokey, and very sweet. We will all receive copies of it.





Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office

Day 8: Aw, poop!

Day 9: Imagining the past

Day 10: I need a break!

Day 11: The big city

Day 12: Iguana lips

Day 13: Lotsa lava

Day 14: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Day 15: Leaving Galápagos

Galápagos Diary, Day 13

Day 13, April 24: Lotsa lava

Today’s theme seems to be (relatively) recent volcanic activity. That is, the past few centuries, not the active lava flow we saw last week.

On Bartolomé Island we walked on a boardwalk over the lava fields (easy!) and then ascended a wooden stairway of more than 360 steps (not so easy). From the top of the island we had a panoramic view of Santiago and other nearby islands.


Bartolomé Island

Bartolomé Island

The view from Bartolomé Island

The view from Bartolomé Island

Pahoehoe (pronounced “pa-hoy-hoy”) is a Hawaiian word for a specific type of basaltic lava that cools slowly, forming ripples, waves, drips, and other shapes as it hardens. It’s often described as ropy or wavy, but to me it looks like a landscape designed by Dr. Seuss, complete with bizarre creatures hidden here and there among the twists and turns and blobs.

On Santiago Island we wandered over the pahoehoe, without a boardwalk or even a trail, each of us finding our favorite imaginary creatures to photograph.


Santiago Island

Santiago Island

Santiago Island

Santiago Island

Santiago Island

Between lava hikes we had time for snorkeling. I spent some time with a huge school of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish, found a constellation of sea stars, and got to see a Tiger Snake Eel (it’s not a snake, but looks like one.) The photos are nothing to brag about, but I’m starting to like this underwater stuff.


Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish


Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office

Day 8: Aw, poop!

Day 9: Imagining the past

Day 10: I need a break!

Day 11: The big city

Day 12: Iguana lips

Day 13: Lotsa lava

Day 14: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Day 15: Leaving Galápagos