Thursday, September 5, 2024

Galápagos Diary, Day 7

Day 7, April 18: A trip to the Post Office


American Flamingo

The morning started early at Punta Cormorán on Floreana Island. The weather was much cooler than it’s been, with high overcast and a light breeze. Perfect hiking weather, in other words. It felt like a relaxed morning, with two beaches and a brackish lagoon to explore at our leisure. At the lagoon we hit the flamingo jackpot when we found a small flock that wasn’t too far away. They very obligingly flew from one end of the lagoon to the other, one or two at a time, giving us opportunities for flight shots. These were mostly American Flamingoes, plus a couple of Chilean Flamingoes, which aren’t usually seen in the islands.








Snorkeling gets better

For today’s snorkeling at Campeón Island I slipped into the water and immediately felt comfortable. Maybe even too comfortable. With an unexpected burst of energy, I started swimming along the rocks and went so far and fast that Monica sent the panga to bring me back.

I soon got into the relaxed pace of snorkeling, lingering with the fish and moving with the current. It’s a beautiful experience, like floating in an aquarium full of exotic and colorful tropical fish. I found a small turtle and followed it for several minutes, snapping photos with my simple underwater camera. I was really starting to think I knew what I was doing - until I saw Monica cruise by twenty feet below me, effortlessly (or so it appeared) gliding along the rocks and getting a close-up view of a shark. So I guess I have a bit more to learn. (The sharks here are harmless to people.)


Galápagos Green Turtle

Monica and friend

After snorkeling we returned to Campeón Island in the pangas, hoping to photograph the endemic Floreana Mockingbird. We did see one, but it stayed in some dense branches and I wasn't able to get a good photo of it. However, my disappointment was more than made up for by a Red-billed Tropicbird, a beautiful species that I had never heard of until today. (Little did I know we would see dozens of them a few days later.)


Red-billed Tropicbird

Galápagos Sea Lion

Galápagos Sea Lion mother and pup

Galápagos Sea Lion

Lava Lizard

The Floreana Post Office

Sometime around 1793, someone - it might or might not have been James Colnett, a captain in the British Navy - had a brilliant idea. On the shore of a small cove on Floreana Island, now called Post Office Bay, he put a barrel on a post and created a kind of volunteer post office. Sailors on whaling ships would leave letters addressed to their loved ones back home and pick up any letters addressed to the cities or countries they were headed toward. At a time when a sea voyage could take months or even years, the letters were equally welcomed by travelers and those they left behind. In the early twentieth century, as the island received more visitors and even a few permanent residents, the post office made it possible for people to order and receive food and supplies of all kinds. The tradition has continued even now, with tourists taking the place of whalers and settlers.

I addressed post cards to my granddaughters in Benicia and exchanged them for cards addressed to Oakland and San Rafael, which I will deliver after I get home. For the story of how one of my post cards got to its destination, read this Facebook post from my friend Treve Johnson.





Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Galápagos Diary, Day 6

Day 6, April 17: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

A "dry landing" doesn't always mean there's a dock.

A hike on Isabela Island this morning was the first time the group has really felt crowded, as the seventeen of us (including the two leaders) followed a narrow trail through a fairly dense forest of small trees and shrubs. It was also our first sighting of Giant Tortoises, which can make up for almost anything. We saw at least ten, maybe fifteen. Nobody remembered to count them. Many were in deep shade and a few were right on the trail, so the photography was challenging. But one group of four or five was feeding in a meadow with good light, so I think we all got the photos we wanted.












As a bonus, we also encountered some very cooperative - and very big - Land Iguanas.






Our afternoon hike, on another area of Isabela, crossed a vast lava field with scattered cacti and occasional freshwater ponds. Hiking in open, desert-like conditions, complete with oases, made me feel refreshed and energized. (As you probably know, I like deserts. A lot.) At one pond we found and photographed three pink flamingoes - just a hint of what we might see tomorrow.


Opuntia cactus





American Flamingoes

Great Blue Heron

Back at the shore, as day turned to evening, we had a chance to photograph a few species that by now are starting to feel like old friends.


Flightless Cormorant.

Blue-footed Booby

Brown Pelican

Galápagos Sea Lions

Marine Iguana

A little more about our tour leaders:

Tui was born in Belgium and arrived on Santa Cruz Island on her second birthday. She has traveled extensively and lived in New Zealand for a while, but Galápagos has always been her home. She probably knows the islands better than anyone else ever has or ever will. She’s my age, tall and athletic, and appears to be equally comfortable speaking English, Spanish, or German, in addition to the French that she grew up with.

Monica also comes from the islands, went to high school in Quito and college in Germany, and is fluent in at least three languages. She’s young and full of energy and enthusiasm, the sort of person who can tell you about the subtle differences in the courtship display of the various species of lava lizards (each island has its own species) and then bubble over with excitement at the sight of some baby ducks. “¡Ooh, hay tres bebés, Tui!”

Together they share a love for the islands, a sense of humor, and a commitment to the group that makes them the best leadership team I can imagine. It’s clear that they’re close friends and not just co-workers. Their nightly briefings are entertaining as well as informative, and frequently have the whole group laughing, especially as we have all gotten to know each other better. I often sit with one or both of them at meal times.



Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office