Dan Suzio Photography

Thursday, September 19, 2024

Galápagos Diary, Day 13

Day 13, April 24: Lotsa lava

Today’s theme seems to be (relatively) recent volcanic activity. That is, the past few centuries, not the active lava flow we saw last week.

On Bartolomé Island we walked on a boardwalk over the lava fields (easy!) and then ascended a wooden stairway of more than 360 steps (not so easy). From the top of the island we had a panoramic view of Santiago and other nearby islands.

Bartolomé Island

The view from Bartolomé Island

Pahoehoe (pronounced “pa-hoy-hoy”) is a Hawaiian word for a specific type of basaltic lava that cools slowly, forming ripples, waves, drips, and other shapes as it hardens. It’s often described as ropy or wavy, but to me it looks like a landscape designed by Dr. Seuss, complete with bizarre creatures hidden here and there among the twists and turns and blobs.

On Santiago Island we wandered over the pahoehoe, without a boardwalk or even a trail, each of us finding our favorite imaginary creatures to photograph.

Santiago Island

Between lava hikes we had time for snorkeling. I spent some time with a huge school of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish, found a constellation of sea stars, and got to see a Tiger Snake Eel (it’s not a snake, but looks like one.) The photos are nothing to brag about, but I’m starting to like this underwater stuff.

Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish

Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office

Day 8: Aw, poop!

Day 9: Imagining the past

Day 10: I need a break!

Day 11: The big city

Day 12: Iguana lips

Day 13: Lotsa lava

Day 14: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Day 15: Leaving Galápagos

Galápagos Diary, Day 12

Day 12, April 23: Iguana lips

Have we seen enough sea lions, iguanas, and lava lizards? Of course not! I don't think I could ever get tired of spending time with these animals, getting to know the details of their lives.

Galápagos Sea Lions

Galápagos Sea Lion

Galápagos Sea Lions

Santa Fe Island has its own species of Land Iguana, one that Monica describes as having “the best kissing lips.” I’ve never kissed a lizard but I have to admit, they do have a beautiful smile.

Santa Fe Land Iguana

Our afternoon visit to South Plaza Island was timed for the arrival of the Red-billed Tropicbirds, which feed at sea. Around 4:00 each afternoon they start returning to their cliffside nests to settle in for the night. Of course, Tui knew exactly which bluff to shoot from for the best view in the best light.

Red-billed Tropicbird

Red-billed Tropicbirds

There were other birds, too, including Galápagos Shearwaters flying to and from the same cliffs. Holy moly, those birds are fast. If your shutter speed is slower than 1/5000 you won’t get a sharp photo, and even then it’s a struggle to get the bird in the frame. (For those who remember playing Oregon Trail, it’s a bit like shooting a squirrel. You’re surprised when you actually get one.)

Galápagos Shearwater. Yes, it's pooping.

Swallow-tailed Gull

Swallow-tailed Gulls mating

Nazca Booby

Land Iguana

On our way back to the pangas Tui was recognized by a couple in another tour group. They were thrilled, telling her what huge fans they are, showing her their copy of her bird guide, and asking how she manages to get such amazing photos. Tui enjoys the attention and at the same time she’s very modest and gracious. I’m a pretty big fan myself so I understood their reaction.

Tui makes a new friend

Day 1: Photographers meet Galápagos

Day 2: We meet some new species

Day 3: Don't forget to preheat your camera!

Day 4: More snorkeling, more boobies, and our first snakes

Day 5: Eruption!

Day 6: Tortoises! Flamingoes!

Day 7: A trip to the Post Office

Day 8: Aw, poop!

Day 9: Imagining the past

Day 10: I need a break!

Day 11: The big city

Day 12: Iguana lips

Day 13: Lotsa lava

Day 14: Red sand, a mockingbird pedicure, and lizard sex

Day 15: Leaving Galápagos

Wednesday, September 18, 2024

Galápagos Diary, Day 11

Day 11, April 22: The big city

About 30,000 people live in Galápagos, more than half of them in and around the town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. After ten days of living on a boat it felt like a much bigger place than it is.

We landed at the main dock and boarded a small bus for the National Park visitor center and the Charles Darwin Research Station, where we toured the breeding facility that is working to restore populations of the most endangered tortoise species. We also got to meet Monica’s parents, who were waiting for her at the bus stop. They beamed with pride as we all told them what a wonderful person she is.

Before Europeans arrived there were 15 species of Giant Tortoise. Four are now extiinct.

Lonesome George was the last of his species.

The taxidermied remains of Lonesome George

Floreana Tortoises are extinct, but DNA testing has revealed some Floreana hybrids living on Isabela Island. (Hybrids occurred when ships needed to reduce their weight, often to escape pirates, and tossed their tortoises overboard. The survivors washed up on shore and interbred with the native tortoises.) By identifying individuals with a high percentage of Floreana DNA and breeding them with each other, scientists hope to recreate the species as much as possible.

Floreana hybrid tortoises. These males have been selected as breeding candidates and are waiting to meet Ms. Right.

A fresh batch of baby tortoises

Yearlings

After the research center it was time to explore the highlands and photograph some tortoises in their natural habitat. They’re fearless here, having become accustomed to having photographers around.

After lunch at a small farm, we returned to Puerto Ayora to help support the local economy. We all did our best, purchasing lots of chocolates and souvenirs for ourselves and for loved ones back home.